Say Julley To Ladakhi Cuisine

How a trip to Ladakh became a surprising and welcome journey into the vegetarian wonders of its cuisine.

The beautiful Union Territory of Ladakh boasts unique culinary delights. Historically this Himalayan state was strategically placed in the centre of the Silk Route, exposed to a confluence of cultures seen in the dishes served across Ladakh -- with influences from Chinese, Tibetan, Persian, and Mongolian cuisine among others. This is a look into some of them.

We visited Ladakh as part of a group in early June 2023 on a trip curated by Muthamma of Globe Trippers. This was our first trip to Ladakh. While the scenic beauty was mesmerising and made this trip one of a lifetime, the food was a highlight as it turned out to be a surprise. Like us, the organisers felt that experiencing the local cuisine is vital and we ended up having four meals of authentic Ladakhi food during the trip. It was a pleasant and delicious wonder!

I have earlier found it difficult to get good vegetarian food in many parts of India, particularly the Northeast. Though many resorts serve the usual North Indian fare that includes vegetarian dishes, it tends to be too monotonous. I was very apprehensive about Ladakhi food being very meat-oriented. I was quite ignorant too. 

What I didn’t know was that some Buddhist monks are pure vegetarians and this has ensured that a lot of plant-based food is consumed in Ladakh, making it easier for vegetarians to travel here too. 

Ladakhi food is extremely seasonal based on the plants and animals that the earth sustains here. The food is carbohydrate-rich because, at such high altitudes, calories get burned without much effort. The main grains are wheat, barley and buckwheat. The greens typically grow wild like chives. The spices used are usually wild cumin and pepper. Lamb is the main meat and Yak meat is eaten in higher territories. Yak cheese is also commonly eaten. Ladakhis also have a tradition of food preservation. They dehydrate dairy and dry tomatoes in the sun for use in the winter month. 

There are many varieties of Thukpa. There is a winter variation called Skyu which has thumbprint pasta and is cooked with root vegetables.

A Tibetan version of Thukpa is also made with noodles and vegetables like soup. The dumplings or momos are made with wheat flour. There is a wide variety of plant-based food here. In one restaurant we were served Nettle Soup which was delicious. This was a soup made out of the stinging nettle plant and quite unbelievable! The biodiversity of Ladakh is very different, with unique herbs like Chin Tse (Chinese celery), Skotse (wild Garlic chives), Kaliyan (purple basil) Thangnyer (yellow Himalayan chilli) Phololing (water or horse mint), Usu (cilantro) and Tonglop (onion greens).

We also loved eating the Ladakhi bread called Kibir. Made of whole wheat, it's like a dense baked bun. It's part of Ladakh's staple food. The only beverage most Ladakhis drink is Butter tea. This is made of tea, milk, salt and butter. This helps the chapping of the lips in the dry mountain desert.

Vegetables don't get left behind in Ladakhi cuisine. A lot of cabbage, carrots and greens are used as stuffing for the vegetarian momos, served with a spicy chutney. The main vegetables that grow here are cabbage, carrots, turnips, chives, various greens and tomatoes. It was wonderful how everything tasted so good without much spice.

The greens in the market (see cover image above) looked extremely fresh and I was tempted to buy them. Apricots and apples are the main fruits grown here. Ladakhi cuisine is a vegetarian's delight, provided one is willing to experiment. 

We had some memorable meals in Ladakh. Alchi, a Ladakhi woman who won the Nari Shakti award from the President of India for making a mark in her field despite the adversities of the remote terrain has carried on the legacy of her mother's cooking. Alchi's kitchen is a must-visit in Leh very close to an old monastery. Alchi herself manages the kitchen and every dish is made with love. We loved the momos she made and asked about her favourite dish. She said that as a child her mother and she had faced so much adversity that she was glad to have any food to eat. 

The stuffed Kibir made by Alchi was delicious. Alchi is an expert baker too. She often goes to Delhi to showcase Ladakhi food and has even held a showcase at ITC Gardenia in Bangalore. We could see that her all-women kitchen was a popular destination for many international tourists.

It also houses a cooperative of local women over 60 who start the day farming, selling their produce, cooing for tourists, spinning lamb yarn, weaving fabric and selling that too. All the money earned helps the women get loans without interest. It was wonderful interacting with these smiling older women and an unforgettable experience. Along with thukpa and momos, the food served included barley sattu with a greens raita. According to them, this is an energy-giving meal.

Another food experience that also came with some poignant stories was after a visit to a monastery one morning in Leh. We went for a picnic at a farm where an ex-soldier laid out a breakfast spread on the grass. Besides thukpa and kibir he also served eggs and cabbage and greens vegetable. He had taken voluntary retirement from the army and ran a homestay now to earn a living.

After our meal, we chatted with him and were surprised that he had fought in the Kargil war as a young soldier in the Ladakhi squad. He has nightmares even now reliving the horrors of the war. He told us of early morning combat at 4:30 am, the lack of sleep, and going without food for almost six days after which they would have some energy-giving Barley sattu. It was heart-wrenching to hear stories of how he had seen friends and neighbours being shot in front of his eyes. He lost his mother while defending the country at war. It was a moving experience. From the time we landed in Leh airport until we left, we were constantly aware of our heroic soldiers who brave the -35 degrees cold temperatures in Siachen and face severe snow storms with resilience. The experience of the high altitude and cold made us realise their effort and sacrifice more than we ever have.

Through the stories during our meals, we also learnt that the monks' prayer before eating is 'I am grateful for any food that I get to help sustain me to be able to help others.' Such humility!

We discovered that desserts are not given much importance in Ladakhi cuisine. Dehydrated apples are common and apricots soaked in mild sugar syrup is the all-time favourite.

I didn't expect such a variety of food in Ladakh for a vegetarian like myself and would urge all of you who visit to try it. From thukpa to pulao to stuffed kibir to sattu, the variety was immense. Even the Tibetan version of the noodle soup was delicious.

When I travel, food is an integral part of the experience. It is a part of the culture and gives a deep insight into the indigenous food grown in the region and its uniqueness. Unfortunately now at most places in India, hoteliers play to the gallery and try to please tourists’ palates with the standard restaurant fare that lacks originality. This is why sampling authentic and delicious Ladakhi cuisine was such a novel experience. In conclusion, I would rate Ladakhi food as very original, healthy and interwoven with the historical tradition of the land. 

All photographs courtesy Geetha Prasanna

Do you also seek local food experiences as Geetha Prasanna does? Share your memorable food stories during travel with us below or write to us at editor@silvertalkies.com.